Singlefins and Longhair.

Growing up in the 70’s as a surfer was the best of times. We didn’t care about contests, there was no mobile phones, no internet long range weather reports, it was fill the car up and go. Everyone pretty much just cruised and flowed with the waves. There was none of this jerky style slipping and sliding it was all down the line flow. This photo captures the times..Long hair, black wetsuits and single fin carves. Back then I surfed more than I ever photographed, this shot taken on the South Coast, rider unknown.